Monday

Sunday we went to Gallipoli — I don’t think I told you about it because we were beat to s***t by the time we got back.  I had no idea it was FIVE HOURS AWAY!  Then four or five hours to tour, in the bus, out of the bus, in the bus, out of the bus.  Our guide had such a strange way of talking, and I’d forget to listen to what he was saying as I tried to figure out whether he had a speech impediment or what.  Lots of dates and deaths.  The location is magnificent, the Dardenelles, the hills — so much better as a resort sight than a months’ long battlefield where so many died.  I woke up about 3:00 a.m., that was that, had to get up at 5:30 to get ready and downstairs for bus at 6:30.  We drove and we drove and we drove.  Stopped for breakfast about 10:30, finally got to whatever the town  below Gallipoli is named, had lunch then on a bigger bus and off we went.  The cemeteries are maintained by an international graves organization that keeps up, I think, war cemeteries in numerous countries.  They have done a great job here.  So beautiful, yet so sad.  What a tragic waste, even more than “normal” battles because there wasn’t a way in hell the allies were going to win.  Well, yes, they did ultimately win, but they didn’t win Gallipoli.

We drove and drove and drove back to Istanbul, got back about 11:30 and we were DONE.  We didn’t wake up this morning until almost noon.  Walled to Topkapi for lunch on the Golden Horn and another walk around the palace.  I want to live there!  I want to live with all those stunning tile walls and decorated ceilings and large verandas looking out at the Bosporus.  Tomorrow we go on a boat tour and a dervish performance, then dinner at a recommended fish restaurant.  I went to hamam this evening, the oldest one in Istanbul supposedly; built in 14something.  Laird stayed here.  Said he didn’t enjoy the one in our hotel; tried to tell him that a self-service hamam is NOT the same as a real hamam, but he was not convinced.  It was quite swell, and I think I’ll have to fit in another time before we leave.  though I expect to be sore tomorrow — these ladies are not gentle — and us whussy Americans who are used to nice, padded massage tables instead of ungiving marble are in for a rough time.  Particularly when someone is mauling you.  But lying on hot marble is pretty damn relaxing.  Oh, but then the bring out the brillo pad glove and off we go!  Then back to hotel (free pick-up and return, isn’t that cool?) and dinner at restaurant on corner.  We shared mixed plate of appetizers, a shepard’s salad and shepard’s kebap — yummy.  I do so like the food here!  OK, it is almost tomorrow so time for bed, up for Turkish breakfast then boat ride around the golden horn.  Or the Bosporus, I forget.  Sweet dreams my sweeties!